(Photo by Luis Gomez)
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AARON FLYNN
Friday, January 23, 2004
FOR THE MOST PART, you can take a menu from any Thai restaurant, travel across
town, up the block, or across state lines to an entirely different Thai place,
order something to eat and not notice much difference. But at Rice, yet another
product of the Logan Circle renaissance near downtown D.C., there were quite
a few things that I’ve never seen anywhere else.
This restaurant offers a mix of classic Thai favorites along with unique family
recipes. It’s exactly what a restaurant should do.
And did I mention how chic Rice seems, with its minimalist décor and
the works of art they leave on each plate? I’m talking birch floors,
teak chairs with that handcrafted, rustic-yet-modern vibe. And it’s all
snuggled into what feels like a miniature Soho loft.
And with 14th Street still shabby enough to scare away the snobby, uptight
set, you can comfortably peer through Rice’s large front window, sipping
some designer cocktail while watching the hip as well as the less fortunate
stroll by.
Get in early if you don’t live for crowds. You’ll find just about
every table packed with fashionistas and locals tossing back cosmos just about
every night of the week by 8 p.m.
AS FOR RICE’S FOOD, it’s a bit of a mixed bag. The menu is divided
into Rice Specialty, Authentic Thai, and Healthy Green sections, with a respectable
selection of appetizers and entrees under each heading. In general, the classic
Thai items are prepared just as you’d want them: with fresh ingredients
and just enough individual flair to make them stand out from the crowd.
And you can’t beat the soups here. The tom kha gai is creamy and sweet;
a vegetable broth with chicken stuffed cucumbers is reminiscent of Chinese
won ton soup, though a bit sweeter and more refreshing.
The restaurant’s spring rolls are also a nifty little treat. Vegetarian
(of course) and rolled pencil thin and extra long, they’re the supermodels
of egg rolls.
Other appetizers aren’t so appealing, however. The shredded pork is
awash in ginger, to the point where the taste is something close to lemon-scented
detergent. The crab dip is fairly bland, especially when served lukewarm with
a pile of dry, unappetizing tortilla chips.
Entrees at Rice hit the mark more often. The fried chicken with crispy lemongrass
is the quintessential late night snack: spicy, satisfying and sweet enough
to almost feel like a dessert. The vegetarian pad Thai is excellent as well.
One of the best items on the menu has to be the seafood basil with shrimp,
mussels, scallops, and squid in a simple sauce flooded with fresh herbs. I
could have easily eaten two orders.
Unfortunately, dessert is Rice’s Achilles’ heel. The coconut pie
is bland, except for an overpowering raspberry puree that doesn’t help
things at all. The mango and sticky rice is not much better. It’s best
to just stick with the ice creams.
Appetizers range from $4 to $7; entrees from $12 to $16; and desserts are
$5.
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